wednesday krus

Atlas Mountains

wednesday krus
Atlas Mountains

I was completely awestruck during our entire four day trek through the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara Desert. When I look back at our photos now, I still can’t believe we had the opportunity to visit such an alien landscape, with the expertise our local guide, Mohammed. 

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We drove on rocky, red dirt roads, winding through village after village. Entire landscapes were carved out of the most gorgeous pink landscapes, with an occasional valley of lush green cutting through the center.

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Our guide, who was from a village of the Atlas Mountains, gave us the most in depth education we could imagine on the area, their history, and their relationship to the land. Often referred to as ‘the berber people’, the Amazigh (or free people) are actually many different tribes of many different types of people. Because they are indigineous, pre-Arabic people, each tribe has its own language, but Arabic is a very common second language. The majority are Sunni Muslim and have carefully and lovingly constructed the most gorgeous mosques, towering over the towns throughout the region. 

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We spent most of our time with the Tuaregs who are a semi-nomadic tribe also known as ‘the blue people’ due to their indigo dyed clothing.

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The Amazigh are fighting for their autonomy within Morocco. On the sides of mountains, they sculpt huge protest messages, spelt out in big white rocks. I wish I could remember Mohammed’s translations—but in summary it was about land ownership, preserving their culture, and their rights. As I’m writing this, I can’t find any resources to support this. All of these are details from my memory and could easily be inaccurate. 

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The majority of the homes, and entire villages and Casbahs, are constructed out of packed red clay and hay bricks. Mohammed pointed out tiny peaks of eroded bricks, where landslides, floods, and heavy rains forced a tribe to move—or wiped them out. Modernity and changing environmental conditions caused some to build homes out of cinder-blocks, which are then painted in the perfect state-sanctioned pink and beige. It’s as if the entire region is camouflaged. 

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The desert is a very far trip from Marrakech. Along the way we stopped at a gorgeous little riad. It was somehow in the middle of it all and in the middle of nowhere all at the same time. The host requests everytime Mohammed brings someone here, he also brings a bottle of vodka and two brown bottles of beer.

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Everyone we met was warm and welcoming. They are thrilled to share their culture are heritage with us. We spent time with one of Mohammed’s friends and we instantly fell in love his family. We had a feast and drank mint tea. They dressed us up and made us sing and dance with them. I’m not sure if we were entertaining them or if they were entertaining. They dragged a Dutch couple off the road and they joined our celebration. It was so bizarre, but kind of beautiful too.

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I can’t say enough how much I loved our journey and our guide. I’m obsessed by the hand painted signs and sun-bleached pastel colors of the region. I’m thrilled by the unfamiliarity. I love the sweltering, dry heat. Nick and I often talk about the kind people we’ve met and the stories they’ve shared with us.

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